Thursday, February 26, 2009
The plank was then dry fitted. I used my little measuring device to find how far down the overlapping plank would be and scribed a line along the length of the boat. The depth of the stringer basically.
The plank was dry fitted and marked where I was to start the lap cut to the stem.
A "Ship lap" joint is usually done with a chisel (difficult) or by using a Rabbet plane. I picked one up for this job actually and was using it to make my lap, but it was taking too long. After 15 minutes of this manual labor, my laziness kicked my brain in gear for a quicker easier way to do this. I knew a chisel was out of the question so I looked at my power plane... mmm
The motor casing is about 1/2" above the deck of the planing surface... promising. The depth needed to achieve is only 3/16" or half the plank thickness, and a thin piece of wood clamped in place to keep the planer on track would do the trick. Sure enough in no time I had both laps done and very cleanly too. Another test fit and I was sold. Manual plane back on the shelf. That's another item covered that I thought could cause problems. "Ship lap" done.
The plank was screwed in place temporarily and the next one back was "templated" and cut along with it's opposite side partner. Likewise the rear short plank section. The lower planks top edge was planed down with the grinder and belt sander to make a clear overlap for the plank above. As before I screwed the planks in place temporarily and glued the scarfs. This time though I had a block of wood to distribute the load on the screws and make for a cleaner scarfed joint. wax paper kept it from being a permanant part of the boat. The exess epoxyt will be trimmed off after.The whole long plank was then removed and the bottom finished edge was cleaned up.
The whole thing is then glued and screwed in place. The same for the opposite side.
Time: 10 hr over 5 evenings
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
I budgeted about 14 hours for the first row (both sides) of planking due to it's complexity, shape and the fact that it's my first (learning curve), but it took me only 12 hours. The following row is MUCH easier if last evenings progress on the second row is any indication. More on that in another post.
Time will certainly tell if I can hold my now ambitious schedule on top of everything else life throws my way.
p.s. My wife will now need an appointment to see me. I'll owe her BIGTIME after this project! not only in time, but cash. If you want a cheap way to get sailing, BUY a boat.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
People like to make comments on my lil project. Graffiti is no stranger to my shop.
I can picture it now... When the planking is done I figure I have a week of sanding and cleaning up of the insides of the boat to accept the several coats of epoxy. even though I know its rough finish and will be cleaned up later, I don't like leaving the jobs looking ratty, the pictures that show the epoxy saturated wood makes it all seem patchy. Though looking at other blogs I know what their at and that its all work in progress... I'm sometimes my own worse critic.
Time: 2 hr
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Scarfing a 6:1 slope on a 3/8" thick plank didn't take long.
We had a snow day at work with a blizzard on the go outside. So it made for a perfect day for boat building. After all the pieces were cut, scarfed and fit tested, I epoxied the scarfs on the frame for accuracy and to maintain the curve of the boat. Wax paper was used behind the joint so I wouldn't accidentally glue the small area to the hull. When that sets I'll remove the paper and glue/ screw in place.
The inside edge of the scarf looks OK. It has to be cleaned up, for later epoxy coating.
First row of planking complete. I guess this means I have 1/4 of the planking done... cool!
Time: 10 hr
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
I'm trying the template method for making my planks. The first being the hardest will certainly be a test for this method.
Nails are tacked in place at these determined points and a batten is run along these points. it's kept in place with more nails tacked in place.The batten is actually the batten shipped to me with my sails. It was easier and safer to ship the batten in one length coiled up. To be cut to length for the sails later. My good fortune. It makes a great curve template. Once the lines were scribed on the new plank it was cut to size. I placed it on the boat frame to check and see how it worked.
It was left oversize on the front and lower front edge just incase. I need to make some small adjustments but it worked well I think. It is the first and the worst plank of the whole build. I think if I get past this first row of planking the rest will go pretty smoothly. Enough for one evenings work, I'll quite while i'm ahead.
Time: 2 hrs
Monday, February 16, 2009
It went smoothly with only slight variation in port and starboard side panels. All of these panels for seats and floor boards we put aside for final trimming as planking goes on. Another 4 sheets of 3/8" plywood is in the basement awaiting cutting.
(pictures to follow)
Time: 6 hr (over a span of 2 days)
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
The port and starboard side seat tops were laid out and cut in the same fashion as the rear seat. The joggle stick let me get the seat in place on the first cut, the rest was just fine tuning with file and sander. The joints were set and excess trimmed off where the planking will go. The inside will be left until all seat panels are complete, and in place, then the whole seat area will be cut in one shot making an even looking seat. There will also be a doubler under the overhang to reinforce the seat lip/edge.
When i'm placing these seats I picture myself standing in any particular area, so I want it to easily carry my weight. There "might" be a couple of extra battens in my boat seating thats not in the plan.
Time: 5 hr over two evenings
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
I see boats for sale at terrific bargins, it's too bad. Theres little money for people to buy them. But it's something that will be repeated over and over. People buying boats too big for their pocket book. I could buy a 24ft cruiser sailboat right now for the same price as my current project, but it would need to be stored at a fee, berth fees, club fees, and so on. Beyond my comfort zone. And lord help me if I lost my job, I certainly wouldn't have the cash to move it, so it would go for sale, and I'd loose money.
But enough complaining. It's not that kind of blog. I have yet to finish my own boat. It's been good so far. And at each finish phase, it gets more interesting. With work on the cockpit, seating, flooring, each evening theres visible progress being made. I'm still planning out how the rear seat will be arranged. My motor is mounted outside the hull so a fuel line and tank will be needed inside the cockpit. the middle compartment next to the transom will hold the tank. I've made a cardboard model of it to see how it will fit in that area. The tank is only 2.5 gal. so it's aprox. 9"x10"x14". Still A tight fit.
To either side of the tank will be bulkheads with large openings. Ground tackle will be stored here. Spare anchor, rode, rope, lots of rope.
I have an idea for making a rack in one of the storage compartments for disposable propane cylinders. that will keep them from rolling around on rough days and when on the road trailer. It's just an idea right now, but time will tell. Most of my ideas are from pictures seen in magazines or online. The online pictures are in directories so I can view them and see if any ideas suit what i'm building.
Note: Billco. The full intention is to be sailing by mid July. So I'm keeping track of progress to see that I make that a reality. Tell Will to have Gravol in hand for July sailing.
Monday, February 9, 2009
The joggle stick is basically a piece of wood with notches or other features that one can make a traceable pattern from. In my stick i numbered the notches so i wouldn't confuse any similar size notch.
The stick is laid onto a piece of scrap panel, wood or plywood in the same plane as the final template or bulkhead or what have you.The sticks end is pointed to the edges, corners or changes in curvature. at each point you trace around the stick on your pattern maker.The pattern template is then placed next to a piece of wood that will make the final piece. The joggle stick is then placed onto each tracing carefully and the end point marked unto the wood. I circled the end points in the picture
All the dots are then connected, cut, and then fitted to the area. In this case my cockpit seat area. once that one was checked for fit, another one was made for the opposite side using the new pattern as a template. Both are then glued and screwed into place.
While I was making the cockpit sides, I also made and placed the support for the rear seat against the transom.
All on an evenings work. Over the next days I will be making the seat area and flooring
Time: 3 hrs
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Fair curve has been achieved as far as my eye can see. I keep checking to be sure of myself.
As mentioned, the bottom stringer (attached to floor) needed a great deal of work.The stem section is looking pretty good. I will reattach the braces to the ceiling until the planking is complete up to them. Just to make sure the stem remains plumb and true.
Just some planer and sander touch up and this part is done. I went to a local lumber yard and picked up my 3/8" plywood an I'm preparing for next part. I might use it for the flooring and seating areas inside the hull.
I went looking for a pair of dividers in the city... an none to be found. I went to order a pair and they were out of the size I wanted... Now that's frustrating. But another try at same place, Thy did have a set that was bigger than I needed, no matter, I'm desperate. It will be another week before there here. Hence me starting the inside flooring areas. What are the dividers for? Oh I can't say until I get them and properly show how they work in making patterns for planking. Don't worry... it's not my idea.
I also have a 18th century idea I will be using in making patterns for my floor and seating area, but that's in next posts.
Time: 4 hrs "PHEW"